Local Reptiles

Geckos on the wall, turtles under the hull

Lombok's reptiles are the wildlife most guests actually meet — usually a gecko in the bungalow on night one, and if you are lucky a green turtle surfacing beside the kayak on day two.

First, the obvious question

No, there are no Komodo dragons here

Komodo dragons live on Komodo, Rinca and a few neighbouring islands in the Lesser Sundas, roughly 250 kilometres east of us. There are none on Lombok, wild or otherwise.

What we do have is the water monitor — a large, handsome and entirely different lizard that is often mistaken for one by visitors seeing a two-metre reptile crossing a beach. It is harmless if you leave it alone.

The headline act

Sea turtles

Sekotong Bay's seagrass meadows and shallow reefs are turtle habitat, and encounters from a kayak are common enough that we no longer treat them as remarkable — though everyone in the boat still shouts.

Penyu hijau

Green turtle

Chelonia mydas

The common one here. Adults are vegetarian, grazing the seagrass beds, which is why you find them in shallow water over sand rather than out on the reef. Rounded, blunt beak and a smooth shell. Endangered globally.

Penyu sisik

Hawksbill turtle

Eretmochelys imbricata

Narrower, pointed, bird-like beak for picking sponges out of coral crevices, and overlapping shell scutes with a serrated rear edge. Critically endangered — historically hunted for tortoiseshell.

Penyu lekang

Olive ridley

Lepidochelys olivacea

Smaller and olive-grey, seen less often in the bay but nesting on south coast beaches. The species famous elsewhere for mass synchronised nesting arrivals.

Nesting

Beaches and hatcheries

Females come ashore at night on quiet sand, mostly between roughly April and September. Several islands including Gili Nanggu run small hatcheries, protecting clutches from dogs, poaching and tidal flooding before release.

How to behave

If you meet one

Stay still and let it surface. Never chase, touch, ride or block a turtle from reaching air — they drown. Keep the kayak at least a few metres off and it will usually carry on grazing quite happily beneath you.

At night

Lights off

If you are on a nesting beach after dark, no white torches and no flash. Hatchlings navigate by the brightest horizon, and a phone screen will send an entire clutch inland to die.

Lizards

The ones you will share a room with

1

Common house gecko

Hemidactylus frenatus — cicak

Small, pale, translucent, and stationed by every outdoor light eating the insects it attracts. Entirely harmless, and doing you a favour. The chirping chik-chik-chik after dark is this.

2

Tokay gecko

Gekko gecko — tokek

Thirty centimetres of blue-grey lizard with orange spots and an astonishingly loud, deliberate TO-KAY! call from the roof beams. Startling the first time. It will not bother you, but it will bite hard if you grab it, so do not.

3

Water monitor

Varanus salvator — biawak

Up to two metres, forked tongue, powerful swimmer. Patrols mangrove edges and beaches scavenging crabs, carrion and turtle eggs. Shy — it will leave before you get close. Give it room and do not corner it.

4

Sun skink

Eutropis multifasciata

Glossy bronze, striped, rustling through leaf litter at the back of every beach. The commonest lizard on the island and the one you will hear more than see.

5

Flying dragon

Draco spp.

A small tree lizard with extendable rib-supported wings, gliding between trunks in wooded areas. Easy to miss until one crosses a gap in front of you and you doubt what you saw.

6

Garden fence lizard

Calotes versicolor

Crested, long-tailed and doing press-ups on a wall. Breeding males flush bright red-orange about the head, which is where the alternative name “bloodsucker” comes from — entirely undeserved.

Snakes

The ones worth knowing

Snake encounters here are uncommon and almost always brief. Nearly every bite anywhere in the world happens because somebody tried to catch, kill or move the animal. Do not, and you will be fine.

Ular laut belang — venomous

Banded sea krait

Laticauda colubrina

Black-and-silver banded, paddle-tailed, hunting eels on the reef and coming ashore to rest and digest. Highly venomous but famously placid and reluctant to bite — snorkellers watch them at close range every day. Simply do not handle it.

Venomous

Island pit viper

Trimeresurus insularis

Bright green, triangular-headed, and nocturnal — draped in low vegetation near water. This is the one to have a torch for if you are walking a garden path at night. Bites are painful and need medical care, but it is not aggressive.

Harmless

Oriental whip snake

Ahaetulla prasina

Extremely slender, vivid green, with a pointed snout and horizontal keyhole pupils. Hangs motionless in bushes hunting lizards. Often mistaken for a viper; it is rear-fanged and of no real consequence to people.

Harmless

Reticulated python

Malayopython reticulatus

Non-venomous, and the longest snake in the world — though what you will realistically meet is a two-metre juvenile near a village chicken coop. Sightings are rare and a large one is a genuinely impressive animal.

Harmless

Paradise flying snake

Chrysopelea paradisi

Black with green and red markings, and capable of flattening its body to glide between trees. More curiosity than concern.

Harmless

Rat snakes

Ptyas spp.

Long, fast, brown and the ones most often seen crossing a road or a rice bund in daylight. Beneficial around villages for obvious reasons.

Sensible precautions

Carry a torch after dark and watch where you put your feet and hands, especially near water and woodpiles. Shake out shoes left outside overnight. Never try to catch, kill or photograph a snake at close range — back away and it will leave.

If someone is bitten: keep them still and calm, immobilise the limb, do not cut, suck or apply a tourniquet, and get to a hospital. Mataram has the nearest major facilities and antivenom. Photograph the snake only if it is safe and it has not moved.

Good to know

Questions we get asked

Are sea snakes a problem when snorkelling?

No. Banded sea kraits are common on these reefs and essentially never bite swimmers. They are focused on eels in crevices and have no interest in you. Watch, keep your hands to yourself, and enjoy it — they are beautiful animals.

Are there saltwater crocodiles?

No. Lombok has no resident crocodile population. Occasional stray individuals have been reported in eastern Indonesia, but this is not crocodile country and it is not something to plan around.

Will a gecko in my room bite me?

The little pale ones, no — they will not come near you and they eat mosquitoes. The large tokay will bite if handled, and does not let go quickly, so admire that one from across the room.

What is the best chance of seeing a turtle?

Calm water, good light, and the shallow seagrass between the islands. Late morning on the day trip is the usual moment. It is never guaranteed, but over a full day on the water most groups see at least one.

Can I visit a turtle hatchery?

Yes — there is a small one on Gili Nanggu that we often stop at. Choose places that keep hatchlings only briefly and release at dusk or dawn; long-term tank-rearing for photos is not good practice.

Best odds of a turtle

The full-day Secret Gilis loop crosses the seagrass beds twice. Bring a mask.

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